Tym Glaser, Associate Editor - Sport
Negril - known for its scenic beauty.
THERE are two clearly defined tourist worlds in Jamaica -- have been for some time now, thanks to the entrepreneurial spirit of John Issa and Gordon "Butch" Stewart.
One is the sanitary, hermetically-sealed All-Inclusive resort sphere where, for a fixed price, you can travel all the way to a tropical island and hardly see the country. You just enjoy your host establishment's pristine beach and pools while chowing down at your choice of restaurant and sipping thick cocktails with funny names at the beach/lobby/disco/pool bar.
"How did you enjoy Jamaica?"
"It was great, mon."
"What did you do?"
"Put on about a hundred pounds with all that nice food and drinks."
"What about the people there?"
"The hotel staff was wonderful."
To step out of the All-Inclusive means to enter the other tourist world which is more real and features a sub-culture specifically designed for tourists who have the spirit and inclination to find out more about the island and sample some of its forbidden fruits.
The fat lady who offers you that massage on the beach can also set you up with a bag of ganja so big you'll be tooting away for a week and it only costs about $500.
Want to rent a dread? A nubile young woman? No problem, mon -- for $4,000 or so a night.
Claudia Kirschhoch, a 29-year-old US travel writer, somehow fell between the cracks of these two worlds and has not been seen or heard of since May 27 in the lobby of the family-orientated Sandals Beaches Negril resort.
She wanted to get out and see the real Jamaica and "mix with the locals", according to a wire report from Associated Press. Travel-wise, she knew the risks of travelling alone but Negril beach, seven wonderful miles of golden sand, is a safe(ish) place.
There are always tourists around wandering to De Buss, Alfred's, Risky Business to suck up the flavour of Reggae music, the aroma of ganja, patois and rum.
"Listen, people can go missing anywhere in the world," the tall American with the cowboy hat says at the All-Inclusive. "I've been coming here since the '60s with my brother and parents. I've been all over the place: MoBay, here, Ocho Rios, Port Antonio.
"When I got married, I took my wife to Ocho Rios -- I love the place. If you want to travel and get around there's always some sort of risk; you just have to be as careful as possible," said the former Floridan who now lives in Arizona.
The Big Lady behind the counter at one of the more popular beachside clubs looks out over a full crowd of tourists -- mainly from the US and England -- and says this part of the world is not unsafe.
She's been working there since the '80s and the only marked change she has noted is in the increase in the number of ladies and men of the night.
Beyond the immediate confines of the club, a waist-high fence has been erected.
"To keep the tourists in or the prostitutes out?"
"A bit of both," she laughs. "I suppose out there now there are probably 30 or so prostitutes -- 20 women and 10 men; it's a booming business."
Who might be the best clients, the English, Germans, Americans?
"No, the Italians --- when they come down here it's really something -- a very busy time."
The silver-haired Australian who is just stopping over on his way to a wedding in Cuba gets approached during the day by the trinket and T-shirt sellers and the druggists. When the sun sets it's the turn of fresh young girls and druggists again.
"I've got the answer down pat now," he says drinking a zambuca. "I just say I've already got some; or to the girls I say: 'I'm too old and wouldn't keep up'."
A jazz aficionado from Brisbane, he says he has not felt the slightest bit threatened during his stay.
"I suppose people coming up to you on the beach gets a bit annoying but it's not really any worse than anywhere else. I can't afford to stay at an All-Inclusive and probably wouldn't want to anyway. I enjoy meeting people -- locals and tourists alike. It's why you travel," says the man who has hitched his way through Europe and South America.
"I've been robbed all over the place," his drinking buddy muses. "The Philippines, Yugoslavia, Australia, Mexico but not here -- touch wood."
"You are cool here, mon," says the barman in a shirt which would make the colour-blind reel back. "We know we have to look after you people. Negril needs the tourists. Where are you from? Bwoy, that's a long way away. Welcome to Jamaica. How do you like my country?"
The Englishmen with thick accents sit on the edge of their barstools as France and Portugal go at it in the Euro 2000 semi finals. They are part of a huge wedding party -- maybe 40 people or so.
"Go out and see the island! Why? We have it all here -- sand, sea, food, booze."
"You don't want to see Y River Falls or do the Black River safari cruise?"
"No mate, but we'll say we did when we get home."
The next day, the nuptials coincide with the Dutch/Italy semi.
"I thought this game was starting in three hours time; we're going to have to cancel the wedding!"
They laugh and leave to witness another couple tie the knot in this tropical island.
The tall man with the cowboy hat who lives in Arizona has a final thought on the two tourist sides of Jamaica.
"It doesn't matter where you stay. You should try to get out and meet the people and see the land. I've been coming here since the '60s and Jamaicans are the friendliest people in the world."
Tomorrow: The disappearance of travel writer Claudia Kirschhoch
